Author: Trey Ratcliff
Date Added: 09.08.2007 Language:
I spent the day in Chernobyl. One of my Kiev game dev friends hooked me up with a private tour, so I decided to go for the day to check it out. Every woman in my life told me this was a bad idea. Every man said it sounded awesome.It was awesome, although I really usually fare better when I listen to the women.
Anyway, the day could not have been colder, but it fit with the milieu of the trip to Chernobyl. In case you don’t know or can’t remember, this is the infamous nuclear power plant that melted down in 1986; it was the worst nuclear plant disaster in the world.
I have taken a bunch of photos, but only had time to process a few of them. I’ll post more in coming weeks and months, but I have pieced these together that show a good sampling of the day.
After I made it through the 30KM security radiation zone, where Will was detained by the military for not having proper documentation (a longer story which ended with him sitting in a military bunker for four hours watching Colombo dubbed in Ukranian), I was handed over to a member of the military who took me on a personal tour of the area. We passed through the 10KM security radiation zone, and then we were well within the exclusion zone.
I paid one of the military guys and borrowed his geiger counter so I could keep track of the RADs as we moved around. More on that later.
First, we stopped in Pripyat, a fascinating place right out of the Day After. Pripyat was built as the ultimate Soviet communist panacea, a place for Chernobyl plant workers and their families to live, go to school, play, and live their lives in master-planned bliss.
Pripyat was immediately deserted after the accident - kids left schools with their books still on the desks, families rushed out without getting everything, just complete and instant desertion. While I was there, it was completely quiet, and it was extra surreal with the early 80’s styling of the Soviet buildings, windows ajar, stuff still sitting in all the windows.
First, from Pripyat, here was the shining star of the city, the fine hotel in its Russian splendor, now an empty, cold, and radiated husk.
Second is one of the large apartment buildings with a slowly
rotting exterior. I could still hear shutters opening and closing in the wind
Next, I went to the creepiest part of Pripyat, the playground
and amusement park. This was recently completed just before the disaster. Bumper
cars, swings, a ferris wheel, and other bits of abandoned toys now lay quiet and
creaking in the snow.
The second picture is another part of the playground, where
the kids emerged from school for playtime.
We checked the Geiger counter because this area was supposed
to still have a significant amount of caesium-137, which takes a good 300 years
to dissipate to safe levels. It was around 0.054, so we decided to keep moving.
Now we started heading for the main power plant complex. We stopped in something
he called the RAD forest that had an old Chernobyl sign that was kitschy and
interesting. 0.290 on the screen. He looked at me, “We should leave
Finally, I ended the the tour at the Chernobyl power plant
itself. It was nerve-wracking, so I took a few shots then moved along.
On the way out, I went through three different radiation
checks. Below is one of the military guys that was holding a geiger counter gun
that he ran along the car and a few other things. I went inside to a special
decontamination center and entered a device that looked like stripped down
telephone booth / nautilus machine. I placed my hands and feet on special
sensors. It said I was clean in some cyrillic word that may or may not have said
I was clean. I looked at the military guy that escorted me in there and he gave
me one of those Russian frowns and shrugged his shoulders as if to say, “Eh,
I could tell something was awry with Yuri’s left eye. As we
talked, the eye seemed to wander further off to the left, like a Cesium electron
leaving its nuclei buddy. Yuri didn’t seem to notice or make any kind of head
tilting compensation. Shaking the Geiger counter, he shook his head. “Things
not look good here.” We moved on to the next stop.
It all started just outside the Exclusion Zone, also known as
the Fourth Zone or the “hot” zone. This 30km radius was abandoned in 1986
just after the Chernobyl nuclear meltdown and subsequent evacuation. People are
still allowed inside certain areas of the Exclusion Zone, but only for a few
hours or a number of days, based on the location and the type of activity.
As an American that thought it was wrong the way Ivan Drago
used steroids versus pure barn-trained Rocky, it was bit strange going into a
Soviet structure, a once top-secret nuclear military encampment. I felt the full
weight of the cold war on me at the checkpoint-Charlie-like security gates where
a bulky enforcer came out to check over my passport. He squinted and grunted a
lot, looking me over, and going through it page by page. I’ve only got two
blank pages at the end of my passport, so I am sure he thought I fit the travel
profile of a spy. Although, if he brought it up, I would argue that spies would
not use passports and they would just sneak in. He would then argue that spies
that did not want to appear like spies would use regular passports. After that,
I would have no argument, so I am glad we did not go down that path. I don’t
think he spoke English anyway.
He handed the passport back to me and sent me on to the town
of Slavutych, where I was to meet with Yuri. There was not much English spoken
at all during this time. There was a lot of grunting and gesturing, all of which
seemed to get me down the one road that led deeper into the hot zone.
This road was especially lonely. Skeletal trees lined its
sides with occasional abandoned buildings, crumbling into the ice and snow. The
day was crystal clear and even though I could see to infinity down this slide
rule of a road, I could see nothing at the end.
I passed by several strange structures, including one I
suspected to be the infamous Steel Yard “Over-The-Horizon” radar that was
used to monitor ICBM launches to the east using ionospheric reflection.
When I got to the Slavutych, a few kilometers away from the
security gates, I saw something I did not expect – several people walking
around a concrete city. They strode with somewhat of an abandoned gait, and
looked in different directions with glassy eyes, almost as if they had resigned
themselves to living within this area. I didn’t see any children or women,
just severe-looking men in heavy clothes, slogging from one place to another. I
don’t know where they came from or where they were going. They simply moved
from one blocky concrete structure to the next.
The town of Slavutych was built just after the nuclear
disaster in 1986. The town supposedly had several thousand inhabitants, mostly
formed by the children that evacuated Pripyat during the meltdown. Before the
town was built, they covered the land with two meters of uncontaminated soil.
“Move to the panacea of Slavutych, now with two meters of soil over the
radiated Earth”. I can see the promotional pamphlets now.
I understand that there are many children in the town and even
things like restaurants and swimming pools, but I did not see any of that. I
went straight to a military building.
It was concrete, like most everything else. The floor was had
a water-warped laminate that looked like a wood texture. The walls looked thin
and cold inside and there was not decoration besides old maps on the walls and
the only furnishings were tired chairs and conference tables.
Then I met Yuri. He looked like he might have been young and
robust at one point, but now he was a bit upset to see me, because it meant
another trip to the heart of the meltdown. We shook hands and he was perfectly
nice. It had been a while since I had spoken English, so I was happy to see he
spoke it clearly and well.
He put on his military jacket and fur hat and we headed into
another cold room with a large map of the area. He motioned loosely at it, then
squinted into the middle of the map – a large red circle, then shrugged it off
and motioned for us to leave.
We got into the van and started driving to the ghost town of
Pripyat. Yuri told me he was from Moscow and his curious job choice was a shade
of indentured servitude that brought him into the hot zone for many weeks on
end. He said it in a matter-of-fact way, as if that is just the way things are
expected to be.
Very soon outside of Slavutych, we stopped at Rudyi Lis, the
Red Forest, so-called because of the heavy fallout cloud that dumped radioactive
dust all over the pine forest. It caused cases of albinism in swallows and
undocumented damage to other wildlife. I don’t know if it affected squirrels
or not, but since they are already insane, there is no reliable control group.
Yuri got out of the van near a “Welcome to Chernobyl” sign
at the edge of the Red Forest. He pulled out the Geiger counter, which was
clicking away faster than Jack Bauer during a typical hour, and it read 0.293.
Ouch. He squinted at it and clicked the glass, a universal move of technology
readout desperation, and began hustling back to the van. I flipped off the Nikon
and followed without question.
Along the way, I didn’t see any animals even though I was
going through what has come to be known as the “Radiological Reserve”. Yuri
told me that many Polesian native animals have flourished since the area was
abandoned by humans. I didn’t see any, but then again, since I was putting my
life in Yuri’s hands, I accepted his claims without question. If he says there
are lots of animals, there are lots of animals. If he says this area has a lot
of radiation and we need to leave, then we need to leave.
We eventually four-wheeled our way through the snow to
deserted Pripyat. I’ve already written a bit about that ghost town in part
one, but I am now posting a few more pictures and things I noticed.
Because nothing is maintained, every roof of every building in
Pripyat has leaks, causing swampy conditions inside all the rooms. This has
resulted in all sorts of fauna, trees, roots, weeds, and other strange things to
flourish in these Planet-of-the-Apes conditions. I am sure a botanist would have
a field day there, seeing as there is still ample Cesium-137 and Strontium-90
that is slowly decaying there and probably causing all sorts of random
mutations. I pictured Venus fly traps that eat humans and the like.
Below is a picture of the schoolhouse. As children evacuated,
schoolbooks, papers, drawings and coloring books were left scattered behind. It
is as if everyone just suddenly disappeared and time froze in a Soviet
educational stasis of 1986. However, that educational system was clearly
amazing. We are doing a lot of programming work in the Ukraine with our game
company, and these ex-Soviets come from the same system that enabled their
brains to launch rockets with slide rules. They are absolutely some of the
smartest and sharpest math/comp-sci minds in the world. The US public education
system is as socialist and government-operated as the Soviet system, but the
general populace of the US does not have close to the scientific prowess of the
typical cold-war child. I don’t know why this is, but I do know that I have
I have also included another picture of the abandoned and
crumbling amusement park that was just completed prior to the meltdown. Now, the
ferris-wheel carts are rusted and falling off the perimeter, sitting askew in
the snow. I wanted to go over and get into them, but my spidey-sense told me
there was a light coating of radioactive isotopes that might stain my A&F
Next, here is a giant apartment building that was abandoned
and is slowly collapsing due to the harsh winters and rainy springs. A lot of
windows have been broken and desperate daredevils sneak in to loot on occasion.
It wasn’t exactly the homiest place in the world, and I am not sure everyone
got the damage deposits back. Then again, I don’t know if mid-eighties Soviet
policy had a robust apartment deposit system in place.
Below that picture is a phone booth outside the entrance to
another apartment building. You can clearly see the amount of disintegration in
the past 20 years. The paint colors have stayed bright… Nothing galvanizes
paint like a sealant of unstable elements.
Heading over the reactors themselves was another matter. The
snow was thick and the roads were difficult to see. We swerved around and Yuri
looked nervous. I don’t like my Russian military die-hards to look nervous. It
is a bad sign. He mentioned we should not get off the road because we end up in
areas that have not yet been “scrubbed”.
Approaching the main reactor, we stopped and found one that
had not yet been completed. It was a hollow husk of a structure, left to fall
apart in the radioactive fallout. You can see that another one was just in the
beginning stages to the right.
We came across a small power station that looked partially
destroyed. It was not some place I felt comfy walking into, so I just zoomed in
for a quick shot and continued on.
Last, here is a picture of another Chernobyl reactor that was
abandoned in the chaos of the fallout. The cranes remain there, and I did not
see a lot of activity, to say the least. Interestingly, even though I was with
Yuri, who knew this place inside out, whenever I would ask question, he would
just shake his head. He didn’t want to talk about it.
We decided it was time to go, so I headed for the exit of the
Exclusion Zone faster than Trotsky heading the Politburo.
Upon leaving the compound, I spent a short period inside the
decontamination center. You can see me below, jammed into a 10,000 kilo metallic
device used to check the amount of rads all over my body. Often times, people
end up with a “light dusting”, as they so brochurely described, of
This Soviet-era decontamination center that is nothing like
the decontamination center used by Trip and T’Pol. I can assure you of that.